One of the things I’ve noticed when growing grasses in pots is the striking difference between aboveground stolons produced by bermudagrass, and underground rhizomes produced by zoysiagrass.
These grasses were grown in pots and fertilized with N, P, and K.
I was talking with a golf course designer recently, and he mentioned that “zoysia starts to look pretty attractive because of its lower water use.” That led to a long conversation about how incorrect that statement is.
This photo was taken 174 days after the ‘Tifeagle’ bermudagrass and ‘Wana’ manilagrass were planted as 3 cm diameter plugs on 1 October 2019.
These particular pots have been fertilized with nitrogen only since then, with no P or K.
I showed the appearance of two greens-type grasses—Tifeagle and a greens-type manilagrass—in this post. That post had photos of the grasses, 28 days after planting, when fertilized with N only, with N + P + K, and with N + P + K + dolomite.
I wondered what would happen if I added P and K and dolomite, or withheld those elements, from some turf I planted recently at ATC南店.
Tifeagle 28 days after planting in coconut coir as 3 cm diameter plugs.
One of the most interesting articles I read last year was Drought responses of above-ground and below-ground characteristics in warm-season turfgrass by Zhang et al. That article describes the drought response after 3 weeks with irrigation withheld:
There’s an interesting article by Zhang et al. about warm-season grass and what happened under water scarce conditions during 21 day dry down periods. This article, Drought responses of above-ground and below-ground characteristics in warm-season turfgrass, reports on an experiment in which bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon), manilagrass (Zoysia matrella), Japanese lawngrass (Zoysia japonica), and St.